Musical Traveler
I’ve found some of the most fascinating music in the back rooms of pubs, on street corners and in people’s homes. Here are some of the places that I’ve had the best music experiences in.
Bangkok, Thailand
I took a boat trip down the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, Thailand. I was with two other people in the long boat and the oarsperson was an old woman who looked about 100 years old. She sang some songs in a language that I assumed was Thai – we didn’t have a language in common to communicate through. The songs were gentle and seemed to match the speed of the slow-flowing river.
Cork, Ireland
I visited the home in Cork of the grandparents of an American friend. She wasn’t with me – I went alone. I was a bit apprehensive but the people were very welcoming. Once we’d discussed my trip, American versus real beer, and accents (mine – they didn’t have any, apparently), I brought up the subject of music. I was treated to over an hour of the grandmother regaling me with all the folk songs (and nursery rhymes) she’d been taught as a young child from her grandparents. I learned a few and recorded the rest, with her permission.
Reykjavik, Iceland
Although it’s now rapidly becoming the tourist destination du jour, I visited Iceland quite a few years ago. I visited a smoky, dark music club down a long flight of stairs. Cliched, I know, but real. The opening act on the evening I was there was a young female singer who sang some authentic Icelandic songs. I don’t remember much about the main act, just the haunting voice of the female singer and maybe a little too much schnapps.
Liverpool, England
I’m including this as I have a fairly broad definition of what constitutes folk music. I attended a Liverpool vs. Manchester United football match at Anfield stadium. This may seem foolhardy, but I was with an English friend who knew the culture and what to do to keep us both safe. I wore the right colors (red) and sang the right songs and chants. The supporters of each team had their own songs and chants and tried to outdo each other in both levels of noise and offensive words aimed at the other side.
